top of page
Writer's pictureTerry Clayton

Let's Make Rain-X

Updated: Jul 2

I had taken an interest in ceramic coatings for the automotive industry putting together some formulations based on silazane chemistry. They work well, but a good deal of caution needs to be taken in preparation as the raw materials are quite reactive..... I also didn't feel the longevity met my expectations. You can see how I made a ceramic coating below.

I appreciate the protective properties it adds to your vehicle but what I liked most was the water repelling property... So I looked for something that would be both easier and cheaper and repel water the same way. Rain-X.


Rain-X is a product used to make your windshield repel water. It's about $6 for a few ounces and can be purchased at AutoZone among other stores. I have always appreciated the water repellency that Rain-X offered my windshield. It does not boast diamond-like hardness (which is really nothing more than marketing), but it still works great to help visibility during heavy rainstorms. So, I decided to peak under the hood and determine how complex this chemistry is. In this short article I will walk you through its preparation and use. I have also included a link to a short video where you can watch me prepare and test it out.


Without further ado, let's make some Rain-X!


Here is the recipe for 200 grams which is about 7 ounces. This will be enough for me to coat several windshields when completed.


Recipe (In order!):

  1. 20g dimethicone - https://amzn.to/3xtslIH (Amazon)

  2. 2g fuming sulfuric acid (H2SO4) - https://shorturl.at/JlTC1 (Lab Alley)

    1. ALTERNATIVE SULFURIC ACID - https://amzn.to/3zvb1Ug (amazon)

  3. 172g ethanol or methanol - https://amzn.to/4c8njAz - (Amazon)

  4. 8g isopropyl alcohol - https://amzn.to/4erJC5H (Amazon)

Preparation Instructions:


Using a 250mL beaker, add 20 grams dimethicone. Add 2g fuming sulfuric acid and mix this for 20 minutes. Use a teflon stir bar and stir plate. You will notice the viscosity decrease as the dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane) hydrolyzes. You can apply heat to accelerate the process, but I don't recommend going higher than 50-70C. Next dilute with 172g of ethanol and 8g of isopropyl alcohol. You will likely end up with a hazy emulsion. I like to tap off a small vial for observation and put the rest into whatever bottle you want to use to store it. I chose an empty spray bottle. Thats it! You're done.


Application Instructions:

  1. Clean your vehicle windshield very well with soapy water as necessary.

  2. Rinse and dry with a terrycloth towel.

  3. Clean your windshield with Windex and dry thoroughly.

  4. (optional) if you still have sap or other spots, you can clean with isopropyl alcohol.

  5. Allow windshield to dry thoroughly.

  6. SHAKE UP your repellent emulsion just prior to use.

  7. Spray your new repellent on windshield and rub in using a circular motion and terry cloth towel. Cover your entire windshield.

  8. Allow repellent to dry. It will look like a cloudy haze across your windshield.

  9. Using a clean terrycloth towel, gently wipe windshield in circular motion until it is crystal clear.

You now have a microscopic coating a water repellent bound to your windshield via the hydroxy groups you created.


A couple of comments on the method above. Its critical you clean your glass REALLY well. The reason why is you want the key ingredient, hydrolyzed polydimethylsilicone to bond to it. Oils, sap, dust, dirt, salt etc. will interfere with it and reduce the effectiveness and how long it the effect will last. Remember your repellent is an emulsion and may separate so give that bottle a good shake before application! When the repellent dries to a hazy film remember, THIS HAZY RESIDUE IS THE KEY MATERIAL. The hydrolyzed polydimethylsilicone is the haze. When you rub it off with a clean terry cloth, you are essentially polishing your windshield, leaving a micron layer thick coating on the windshield. Once you have coated your windshield with a form of PDMS, you have essentially reduced the surface energy to around 20 mJ m^-2. For comparison an auto windshield (untreated) may range in surface energy from 40-60 mJ/m^-2.


Here is the video and good luck if make some yourself!





4,567 views5 comments

5 Comments


onemischiefmaker
onemischiefmaker
Nov 18, 2023

Awesome I love chemistry. Thanks for your wisdom!!

Like

hunterdewand
Mar 31, 2023

I am looking for a sealant to fix the rv glass repair and this product i am sure isn't going to help at all. Any home remedy to fix it DIY, please share your thoughts.

Like
Terry Clayton
Terry Clayton
Mar 31, 2023
Replying to

Hunter, you are right. This won’t help at all. Typically an epoxy is used which cures in the crack with very little “shrinkage”. My Rain-X recipe is simply a water repellent. Cheers Terry

Like

rocevo1461
Jan 11, 2023

Thank you for this instructional post. In it, you mentioned using Windex to clean the windscreen prior to applying the coating. It's been my understanding that glass cleaners containing ammonia are less suitable for automotive applications because of the potential to damage paint, polymers, elastomers, and tint film, if present. Instead, I've always opted for an ammonia-free product like Stoner Invisible Glass or Sprayway. Do you have any thoughts about this?

Like
Terry Clayton
Terry Clayton
Mar 31, 2023
Replying to

Sorry for the late reply. Strong caustics like sodium hydroxide and concentrated ammonia can damage some coatings. However in a typical glass cleaner the ammonia is likely only at 5-10%. I think your okay here as this is fairly dilute and there will typically be little overspray. What you want to be careful of is spilling solvents in your cars body. Cheers

Like
bottom of page